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Other odds and ends to upgrade my system

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My friend sent me some other items that I will use in my current solar array:


1. Okay, well, these won't be used, not quite yet anyway. These are standard ANL fuse holders. When my friend was trying to get some items for me in the US, he ordered these. At the moment, they are not much use to me, because he didn't order the appropriate sized fuses for them. However, I will buy some full sized ANL fuses in the near future, and have them shipped over. He did, however, order some Mini-ANL fuses, mistakenly, to go with the holders (below) that I had purchased. I had also ordered some. So, now I have spare fuses too. 




2. Here are some Mini-ANL fuse holders. The fuses are considerably smaller than standard sized ANL fuses / fuse holders. These are apparently popular in automotive sound installations. They seem like some beefy little holders. I wouldn't say they are water proof. But, they are definitely splash proof, or water resistant. Each one has four (4) o-rings inside. They accept from #4 to #8 awg wire. You will need a set of Allen (Hex) wrenches as well, to add / remove fuses from them. In the image, you can see one in the packaging, one fully assembled with the Mini-ANL fuse inside, and one disassembled with the fuse connected.



3. These are "stud type" circuit breakers that are typically used in the automotive industry. If you are not familiar with these types of breakers, here is a bit of information about them:


Type I - If the circuit shorts or too much current is drawn, they will automatically, and continuously reset.

Type II - If the circuit shorts or too much current is drawn, they will automatically reset after the voltage has been disconnected from the circuit.

Type III - If the circuit shorts or too much current is drawn, they will trip, but have to be manually reset by a person. 

The ones I ordered were Type I and Type III.


Type I breakers are 25 amp and 30 amp breakers (metal housing). The Type III breakers are rated at 50 amps (black plastic housing):



4. Until now, I have been using Buss Bars to mount my battery cables. But, back in November, I purchased a voltage inverter. It will provide residential voltage (230vac) to run household appliances at the farm, after I move there. Since I need to connect it to the system, I want to change the Buss Bars I am using, as they are not beefy enough to handle the higher current draws necessary to power the inverter.


Anyway, pictured below are insulated junction points, or junction post blocks, most often used for marine or automotive applications. They are perfect for attaching a bank of batteries, a voltage inverter, and the solar controller together. The studs are 24 mm (~1") high. So, you can mound a fair number of cables on each of them. The diameter of the studs is ~9.5 mm (~3/8" or .375"). The inverter is rated for a maximum continuous draw of 125 amperes. I am quite sure I will never drive it that hard. I would never push it past 600 (50 ampere draw) to 900 (75 ampere draw) watts.




Other odds and ends:


Marine Dual Battery Switch



Water Proof (I doubt it, but significantly better than the ones I found locally) ATO fuse holders.



Mini-ANL fuses, for the holders (Item #2) above.


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