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oh no paul

i like his post it shows where and how far you can take it 

for the most part love the hot tub 

like it so much considering paying to much for room just couse of it :)

i will be building mine in mountains so cant tell how far i can take it 


LOL. Okay. You will have more money in a pool or hot tub, than you will in the house. :D

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My bamboo house and cottages are still in  good nick after 12 years. Points to remember are   Make sure that the builders are using the right type of bamboo , there is hawaiin (thin walls) and the

It wonderful to see more people discovering the yurt design.. we have thoroughly enjoyed ours! There is no need at all to buy a commercial kit, then to have the expense of a several thousand pound s

Some of the best pizza ovens are built using clay in a dome shape. See Traditional Wood Burning Ovens. The ideal height for the oven should be 16 inches. I used firebricks from Bulua just outside Cdo

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Hi . I started the building in 2003, based on a model I made as I am useless at drawing 2d plans. It has a suface area on the ground floor of approx 2000 sq ft and a mezzanine 2 nd floor of 400 sq ft. Altogether 4 bedooms, staff accommodation, 2 kitchens and 2 bathrooms. Wraparound terrace 6 ft wide which is our diining area. Also have three bamboo / hardwood cottages built in a balinese style with a sunken japanese style  jacuzzi/.hottub on the ground floor and bedroom on 2nd floor. 


I built the house on 48 concrete supports such that there is a great deal of redundancy so that if one element fails it wil not affect the structual integrity of the house.


i have added over the years and probably will build another self contained balinese style cottage but with its own kitchen etc later this year.


Spritsail, I have a question. You have three units down by the pool with modified arch roofs. Is that one building or is it three separate buildings and the eaves on the roofs just come together between them. It would seem like there would be some serious leaking problems if you get a heavy rain, but maybe it's just an optical illusion and the units aren't as close as they look. I like the looks of the design. I'm just having a problem visualizing how the roof drainage would work.


BTW, my wife would like to know what your rates are, so if you could PM me that information, I would appreciate it.

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Hi Sprit sail


Can you please tell me what kind of varnish you use on exposed wood and if you have other suggestions.


The house I am building has a lot of exposed wood (even if a lot of it is under a roof, it will get completely soaked during the rainy season).


I am treating the wood with glycol/borax/boric acid. But I think it needs varnish or something like that. Anyway, I've seen boiled linseed oil, tung oil finish, used motor oil, exterior polyurethane, spar varnish. But would like something not too expensive and practical.


Would appreciate your advice.



i use the Ci  plastic varnish , its cheap and usually lasts , although if it rains a few days after painting you will get white spots. For the colour I use either natural , or mix yellow O and natural  or brown and natural depending on the colour of the bamboo. I dont use valspar as its too expensive and I havn't noticed any diffrence. For wood/ bamboo that is likely to get a soaking it might be worthwhile considering using polymer resin and hardener like you use for fibre glass. You will also need styrene as a thinner. You have to be meticulous in mixing as at temperature here it will cure in minutes. I have used loads to cover my masts on the yacht .


For the hardwoods , do not use linseed as it leaves the wood greasy. Use teak oil if you can get it. I have used wax polish for years on the hardwood floors and they look fine, bit labor intensive and takes an hour or so a day polishing with a half a coconut husk.


If you have hardwood that is discoloured then you can brighten it up with oxalic powder diluted in a a gallon or so of water. Use rubber gloves to scrub the wood, leave for a while, then brush off the dirt.


Hope this helps a bit.

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thats taking bahay kubo to a next level 

just missing private airport and a dock lol 

if you are looking for something a big smaller then these are quite easy to make. I had similiar on my allotment garden in England for 10 years.



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I am building 36in wood fired oven in batangas. The last time I built I had problems with the refractory cement on the chimney portion because some bricks are working loose.


Would you know if I should use castable refractory cement which is stickier or just regular refractory cement?


Castable is 2x the price for the weight.


Anyway, I am building one that connects to the kitchen so we can use it even when it rains. I plan to put a metal door and  a coal chute that opens to the outside.








i replied to a thread some time ago on a similiar theme - wood burning brick ovens - and there are some pics there. First I put down a concrete base, about 5 ' x' 5 ft  and walls 4 ft high . The walls were hollow brick and then around 2 ' of concrete. This is used for wood storage. On top I used layer of firebricks. It is lined with  firebricks . The exterior walls are concrete about 3" thick. i use 2" thick mahogany door which is topped with steel plate.


As a previous post says it is a learning curve to use it. My wife, being small and a bit afraid of the fire isn't too keen on usng it so much and prefers an eye level electric grill/oven.


it wasn't too expensive to build 2 workmen, around 4 days at 300 php at day = 2400 php , 200 firebricks at 4 php = 800 php. Hollow blocks, maybe 50 ?  sand, gravel, bag cement . maybe total cost around 10k . i did it to use up some left over materials, After 4 years its still ok, none of the firebricks have cracked or dislodged, 


The web site traditional wood buring brick ovens gives a lot of tips and building ideas.    

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Start a new topic for that, please. Let's stay on topic here, people. 

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Tung oil finish is excellent but labor intensive.  About as waterproof as you can get.  Most "varnishes" are now polyurethanes and might be cheaper for the first few coats but long term the tung oil finish is going to be cheaper cause it lasts.


I'd like to know if tung oil is availble here in Phils. Perhaps there is a local name? I asked a couple of months ago but no one new what it was.


Boyson makes a wood sealant but no indication how long it lasts. Pretty heavy duty chemicals too, that I'd rather avoid with my young kids playing on the deck I plan to build soon...

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Paul, ok on wfo being off topic though it ws discussed on the thread a few times.




They sell tung oil finish here (zar brand) in most of the large hardware stores. It's not really tung oil (pure tung oil), but a finish that looks like a tung oil finish. 1.6k per gallon.


Anyway I spent a lot of time researching and this what I found out:


1) No treatment lasts forever for exterior wood. You need to treat every 2-3 years. Even treatments designed for wooden boats in salt water.


2) With good materials, design and maintenance a deck can last over 20 years. However, I know people here who've built exterior decks that have only lasted for 2-5 years. They use pressure treated wood like armor wood (treated pine). This is first time we're building exterior decking here. The guy helping us has built decks and wooden houses that still look good after 20 years, so that is our hope. He has these tricks like using spacers, reducing exposure of the plank ends, cementing underneath the deck. Our deck probably costs 30% than didn't take these extra steps. 


3) You need to stain to minimize UV damage. A clear coat is not enough. You also need to treat for mold and seal/coat with some kind of finish. An oil finish is more flexible. Some finishes are harder but eventually crack and let moisture in that does not dry and eventually it rots.


4) Some re treating requires sanding down to wood (poly urethane,  varnishes) because these coatings crack and allow moisture and mold to form. Might last longer but more difficult to retreat. 


5) Linseed oil while flexible is food for mold.



Thought about importing TWP or Sikkens which are the best rated in the US. But since nothing really lasts, I decided to just make do with what's available here.


I ended up using Boysen Xyladecor (might be licensed by ICI since it's a known brand). Well, it's an oil based wood stain, which I understand is toxic but I believe everything is toxic. After that our foreman is treating with some kind of sealant. He also said to wax it every year prior to rainy season. I also plan to retreat with glycol/borax every couple of years for mold and termites. 


As far as toxicity is concerned, since our house is a beach house, I plan to do the treatments when we will not use the house for a few weeks.


Anyway, this is all theory for us. Will see how it goes.

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