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Cannonball

MBCA Hannah Glitz Building Progress

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Cannonball

Update 17/5/13 Well she is coming along, the aft cabin is starting to take shape... The deflector will hold around 12 Cubic meters of air in1.5 liter, 1 liter, and 500ML empty bottles which will add 11,645 kilos of emergency flotation (after subtracting the weight of the plastic bottles).

I will add another 30 cubic meters to the inside of the hull beginning at the waterline going up the entire length which will give an additional 29,112 kilos of added flotation. Collecting the bottles is taking time, but I will concentrate on the deflector then continue on the hull as I collect the bottles. This will be as close to unsinkable as I can make it, and I'm confident it will be the safest boat on the water in the PI when I'm finished.

We've finally located a couple of Marine reduction gears, so I won't be forced to use the truck transmission (thank GOD)... My wifes uncle will check them out when he gets in from Saudi... He rebuilds Marine engines and gear boxes there so I should end up with what I need.

It's still looking like July sometime to begin sea trials, and I'm looking forward to that day.

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tim1967

i have a question, and i will be the first to admit, i can be a little un-smart.  when i move to PI, i will build my own boat,but my question is. why start at the water line with the bottles. why not start at the keel ? am i missing something ?

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Headshot

Maybe you covered this, and I just missed it, but why are you leaving the deck overhang braces uncovered? I see they are still uncovered now. It seems that, while the braces (as they are now) will be great at supporting load from above, they won't do anything for load from below. Are these the deflectors you are talking about, and you will cover them with epoxied sheeting after you fill them with bottles?  If so, that will allow the boat to divert the upward forces from waves to outward forces (with the resulting spray going away from the boat). Of course, except in heavy seas, they will never be touched by the water.

 

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Cannonball

Tim. The reason for starting at the waterline is I want the boat to float upright even in a compromised state, (I want it bottom heavy), if I put the flotation below the waterline I believe it would make it easier to roll over, and then float upside down. When you move here and get seriuos about building a boat, I would suggest contacting Bill before you do anything, he is our resident expert on boat building. You are always welcome to come look at mine to see how we reconstructed it, and I have mountains of pictures you're welcome to look at if that day ever comes and you get serious about it. Just remember a boat is a hole in the water you pour money into, literally. 

Headshot. The deflector may appear weak but trust me it's not, everything is tied together with epoxy, bronxe nails, plus bolts to a heavy long. inside the 7/8 " double laminated hull, that are likewise tied into all the ribs... Yes it was mentioned before that deflector will be skinned with double laminated plywood as soon as I get the bottles installed. Toward the end of the sea trials I fully intend to stuff the bow into the biggest wave I can find out there and see what happens... If something is going to fail or break I want it to happen during sea trials, because I will still have the crew on the payroll and can perform the repair or modification once I solve the problem.

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spydoo

Thanks for this post. It's a real treat.

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Headshot

The deflector may appear weak but trust me it's not, everything is tied together with epoxy, bronze nails, plus bolts to a heavy long. inside the 7/8 " double laminated hull, that are likewise tied into all the ribs... Yes it was mentioned before that deflector will be skinned with double laminated plywood as soon as I get the bottles installed. Toward the end of the sea trials I fully intend to stuff the bow into the biggest wave I can find out there and see what happens... If something is going to fail or break I want it to happen during sea trials, because I will still have the crew on the payroll and can perform the repair or modification once I solve the problem.

 

Somehow I missed the part where you said it would be skinned with plywood. That makes all the difference in the world. Thanks for being patient with the feeble-minded and the reading impaired. I think your boat is really nice and has great lines.

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thebob

Tim. The reason for starting at the waterline is I want the boat to float upright even in a compromised state, (I want it bottom heavy), if I put the flotation below the waterline I believe it would make it easier to roll over, and then float upside down. 

 

Just from the photos. I'd also suggest that you need some buoyancy designed into the superstructure. If she turns turtle then she may be stable capsized because of the weight of the superstructure.

 

Perhaps some slabs of foam overhead in the cabins, it will give some thermal insulation too.

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Cannonball

No problem Headshot, we all have our senior moments LOL.

 

Theb, I hope to elliminate the turtle possibility, and I have been thinking heavily about the superstructure and what I would do in that event... I will focus on emergency flotation bags partially inboard on the akas, I plan to house them (until needed) in a weather / UV proof fabric tube with velcro closure. I plan to install two on each side and inflate them with a highspeed turbo blower blowers one for each bag, powered by a 6.5 KW self contained emergency generator tucked in behind the bridge... It will hopefully be the last thing to get wet and independent from the rest of the systems. This will run emergency pumps (if needed) and in the off chance I lose an Ama, the plan is to inflate them (bags) with a panic button on the bridge. Hopefully the boat never gets caught in a huge storm at sea but if it ever got bad enough I would be inclined to deploy a parachute sea anchor off the bow on around 400 feet of line, and just sit it out if I wasn't getting shoved into a reef by the storm. If the storm was pushing me into an Island with a beach that would be fine too because she is built to beach if necessary. The inherit problem with a multi hulls (bankas included) is they will float upside down as well as right side up and they are a real bitch to turn back over again. SO the obvious focus to me is to make sure that never happens in the first place, eventually I do plan to build a multi hull that is easy to right again it really wouldn't be that difficult... I will build a small one first to prove my concept then incorporate it into and big ones I build later and probably retro fit what I already have. Like I said in an earlier post I am a tinkerite and enjoy things outside the box... If I ever build a mono hull it will be self righting with a water tight superstructure and probably padded bulkheads and overhead in the event you're in the middle of a compartment with nothing to grab when it decided to roll over. If you converted your engines to an external oil resevoir they could run upside down with no damage. Once again not hard to do aircraft do it all the time, It might be a fun project someday when I have the time and money to play around with the concept.

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tim1967

 thanks for the response. i told you i could be a little unsmart. it makes sense to me now.  this is a great thread you got going so please let us know more when you can. take care and good luck

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Contango

Tim. The reason for starting at the waterline is I want the boat to float upright even in a compromised state, (I want it bottom heavy), if I put the flotation below the waterline I believe it would make it easier to roll over, and then float upside down.

You really need some proper out riggers, once you have those and they are filled with floatation, as long as they are in tact then the boat cant really sink...your going to need some serious out riggers anyway with all that super structure, it all looks very top heavy and you have to consider the windage too.

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Cannonball

You really need some proper out riggers, once you have those and they are filled with floatation, as long as they are in tact then the boat cant really sink...your going to need some serious out riggers anyway with all that super structure, it all looks very top heavy and you have to consider the windage too.

 They are pretty massive (the pictures don't do them justice) but I will further back them up with cable gussets on turn buckles so there is no way they can break, short of tearing the whole boat apart. For now as I stated earlier I will run the bamboo until I get the amas built, right now there is no Marine plywood available in the Philippines.

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Cannonball

May 22 update,

 

The project is moving along, I've been informed she should be ready for sea trials by middle August.

 Pic 1. The deck planks are sealed with roofing cement and secured to the deck stringers under the plywood sub deck.

Pic 2. Looking aft from just infront of the third hatch... The post in the center will be removed and replaced by two on each side. I requested this to get rid of the hypnotic post in the center of the watch standers field of view.

Pic 3. This is looking aft and out of the starboard side from inside the cabin, I am not going to close it up with windows and leave it open for air circulation. I will use clear plastic roll up wind and rain screens if the weather goes south, but folks onboard will still be able to see out.

Pic 4. The abortion on the aka will be gone and the CR with plumbing will be inside, when she is completed but the sheeting is just about done.

Pic 5. This is a shot looking down into the aft of the cabin from up on the fantail. I will run an I-Beam along the overhead and build or buy a trolley for an electric 2 Ton hoist. This will allow changing an engine or other equipment without breaking my back (I'm getting old) quickly, I will have two engines with one rebuilt and ready sitting in the shop. At the first sign of a problem I will just swap it out and rebuild what ever is needed in the convenience of the shop and not have the boat tied up for months waiting for parts in the Philippines.

Pic 6. is a shot of the starboard side. When this project is finished I will have used 100 gallons of marine epoxy and around 200 kilos of bronze nails, and around 100 kilos + or - of stainless steel bolts.

The deflector will start getting filled with bottles and sealed after the decking is completed inside, and the amas (bamboo) will be added and finished.

After that the engine and running gear, rudder, steering system, Wireing, lighting, fuel, water and sewage tankage, pumps, and plumbing.

After all that I still have to finish out the pilot house / chart room, and navigation equipment. The Captains / Chief Engineers Quarters, and Galley can be done after sea trials. I hope I answered most of your questions with this long winded explanation. I'll post more later as the project progresses.

 

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tim1967

thanks for the update. i really enjoy the post and the pics

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Cannonball

June 1 Update, the Deck boards are almost finished and looking much better, I believe the Epoxy / Roofing cement mix in the first Pic, will be a strong water proof seal.

Pic 2 & 3 show most of the deck boards inplace. These will get sanded and painted, My wife picked the color scheme so I'm curious LOL.

Pic 4. Is looking aft at the upper deck and Bridge.

Pic 5 is the Captains Quarters looking forward.

Pic 6  is looking down the ladder to the main deck from the Captains quarters.

Pic 7 Looking aft at the access Ladder up to the Captains Quarters and the Bridge.

Pic 8 The Bamboo has arrived and will be added to the Amas.

 

I hope you enjoy the post and find some useful information if you decide to build or buy a Banka.

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tim1967

once again thanks for the update and the  pics. i bet ur getting excited and want to get out on the water. good luck with your project

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