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towboat72

hollow block mold

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Davaoeno

Yikes. I think the newly rebuilt gas towable one bagger mixers run about p45K. My guess is the rest of their prices are equally inflated.

 

I have not researched block makers so i can not comment on the cost. I have however done extensive research into buying a mixer . A one bagger - new, with a choice of either diesel or gas engine runs just shy of 50,000 pesos .

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Cuda

Oh and I can personally make 150-200 blocks a day, with a 2 day head start for curing, I can stay way ahead of any single block layer here in the Philippines.

Do you make 8x8x16 blocks ? Much better than the sizes i saw here as you can use them to pour columns(posts).

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Brucewayne

Do you make 8x8x16 blocks ? Much better than the sizes i saw here as you can use them to pour columns(posts).

 

 

 

I made 6" and 8" blocks, the 6" blocks work well for interior walls and save a small amount of space for the rooms.

Not much, but even an inch can be a help when you consider the length and width of the rooms.

I sold my forms to a friend a while back, my heart condition keeps me too weak to do hard labor, the best I can do is to walk 5 miles a day at a leisurely pace.

If I had an electric block maker though, wow! I bet I could start making blocks again and would be glad to as there is little or no competition when it comes to hard blocks.

Edited by Brucewayne

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Cuda

I made 6" and 8" blocks, the 6" blocks work well for interior walls and save a small amount of space for the rooms.

Not much, but even an inch can be a help when you consider the length and width of the rooms.

I sold my forms to a friend a while back, my heart condition keeps me too weak to do hard labor, the best I can do is to walk 5 miles a day at a leisurely pace.

If I had an electric block maker though, wow! I bet I could start making blocks again and would be glad to as there is little or no competition when it comes to hard blocks.

You are absolutely right, there is no need for a 8 " interior wall . if i had a heart condition i would stay away from any work involved concrete. very physicaly demanding , especially in a hot climate.

However, you might have a good idea for a quality block manufacturing..

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Brucewayne

You are absolutely right, there is no need for a 8 " interior wall . if i had a heart condition i would stay away from any work involved concrete. very physicaly demanding , especially in a hot climate.

However, you might have a good idea for a quality block manufacturing..

 

 

 

My wife's younger brother was helping me, but it proved too demanding, but as I said, I could get along with the machine and her brother (he is a good worker) and start making a bit of money too.

I mean, one could put out a lot of quality blocks pretty fast with one of those machines and here I didn't even know they were sold here, even the block yards I learned from did them one at a time like we were doing.

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thebob

You can buy, manual molds in most of the small hardware outlets downtown around the Carbon area.

 

I think that as soon as CHB is mentioned all, of the old fallacies start coming out.

 

There is absolutely no reason to make blocks stronger than 50 blocks per bag, and very little reason to use 6' blocks, unless the blocks are to be left exposed or used as "load bearing" walls.

 

A CHB, in a concrete filled and rendered wall is only a volume spacer. You could use polystyrene instead of CHB and the wall would have perfectly satisfactory integrity.

 

A mixer is imperative to mix adequately.

 

Cement and sand are mixed dry! Otherwise the cement sticks to itself, not to the sand, resulting in a weaker mix.

 

Using salty water or salty sand, is "not" detrimental to strength of CHB. But it will effect cure time because of the change in hydration. Once cured, the majority of chlorides will have been removed by efflorescence.

 

For steel reinforced concrete, in a tropical littoral climate such as is found in most of Cebu, reinforcing bar "needs" to be protected by an impermeable barrier. Epoxy coatings are recommended.

 

Concrete is porous and permeable, chlorides will migrate through concrete due to capillary action (from the soil) and hydroscopic pressures. It is a compound hydrate solid that will alternate between anhydrous and semi saturated. It is often this cycle that corrodes rebar by electrolysis.

 

If you haven't studied this stuff, find a qualified civil engineer who has, and pay him.

 

You can't just wing it, although most contractors here do.

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Cuda

My wife's younger brother was helping me, but it proved too demanding, but as I said, I could get along with the machine and her brother (he is a good worker) and start making a bit of money too.

I mean, one could put out a lot of quality blocks pretty fast with one of those machines and here I didn't even know they were sold here, even the block yards I learned from did them one at a time like we were doing.

Question is, how many can you sell monthly to make it viable biz ?

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Brucewayne

You can buy, manual molds in most of the small hardware outlets downtown around the Carbon area.

 

I think that as soon as CHB is mentioned all, of the old fallacies start coming out.

 

There is absolutely no reason to make blocks stronger than 50 blocks per bag, and very little reason to use 6' blocks, unless the blocks are to be left exposed or used as "load bearing" walls.

 

A CHB, in a concrete filled and rendered wall is only a volume spacer. You could use polystyrene instead of CHB and the wall would have perfectly satisfactory integrity.

 

A mixer is imperative to mix adequately.

 

Cement and sand are mixed dry! Otherwise the cement sticks to itself, not to the sand, resulting in a weaker mix.

 

Using salty water or salty sand, is "not" detrimental to strength of CHB. But it will effect cure time because of the change in hydration. Once cured, the majority of chlorides will have been removed by efflorescence.

 

For steel reinforced concrete, in a tropical littoral climate such as is found in most of Cebu, reinforcing bar "needs" to be protected by an impermeable barrier. Epoxy coatings are recommended.

 

Concrete is porous and permeable, chlorides will migrate through concrete due to capillary action (from the soil) and hydroscopic pressures. It is a compound hydrate solid that will alternate between anhydrous and semi saturated. It is often this cycle that corrodes rebar by electrolysis.

 

If you haven't studied this stuff, find a qualified civil engineer who has, and pay him.

 

You can't just wing it, although most contractors here do.

 

 

 

Tell me that when your 50 blocks per bag are cracking and mine are still solid.

Mine were 40 per bag and that makes a big difference in strength.

I talked to a lot of local block makers and theirs were averaging about 100-150 per bag!

I don't believe everything I read, but that's just me I guess.

Oh and most factory molds are expensive and flimsy.

A welder can make them to your specifications for only about P2,000 each.

I don't like having to buy only what is available, no true survivalist would.

Edited by Brucewayne
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Brucewayne

Question is, how many can you sell monthly to make it viable biz ?

 

 

I really haven't figured with the new machine I could get, but with the old one block, manual mold, I could break even in a month with about 300 block sales a day, but it took 2 days to get that many made with one man.

Manual block making is normally 200-300 per day if you rush, but if you want quality and take the time to mix, compress, etc. and do it right, maybe 150 per day.

I would had to have had 2 molds going to have done that, but sometimes things got slow so that wasn't a necessary action.

If we caught up on our 8" orders, we made 6" and had a small stock pile of about 1,000 of them.

The locals want 4" and 6" only, but I refused to make 4", too thin to support a 2nd floor as far as I am concerned.

I was getting P25 per 8" block and P22 per 6" block if that makes it easier for you to figure, also I was picking my sand up in the boonies (creeks in Consolacion hills), paying two guys P300 each flat multicab load which saved me quite a bit of money.

One really should split a barrell and rinse the mud and crap out of the sand though or the strength and color could be jeopardized.

Edited by Brucewayne
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littlejohn

If you want the best blocks you want the block maker at Belmont. It has a motor that turns an unbalanced shaft that shakes the hell out of the whole machine so the material compresses into to the mold much better than pressing by hand. I think the unit is about p17K and then you have to buy the steel bottom plates for I think p80 each. If you buy 200 plates you can make 200 block per day. It does only make 3 at a time and it takes maybe 2 minutes to make the 3. Then you raise them from the machine and set them aside to make another 3. Following construction, the machine can be used as a family business or the unit can be sold for not much loss.

 

On those little electric mixers, they really are kind of junk and only good for small projects. Not very well made and only do half a bag of cement at a time if that. And if you get in the middle of something and you have a blackout, it sucks.

 

Where is this block maker? We were looking at a used one a while back and it was more than that. Hmmm maybe I should sell the block makers?

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Brucewayne

Tell me that when your 50 blocks per bag are cracking and mine are still solid.

Mine were 40 per bag and that makes a big difference in strength.

I talked to a lot of local block makers and theirs were averaging about 100-150 per bag!

I don't believe everything I read, but that's just me I guess.

Oh and most factory molds are expensive and flimsy.

A welder can make them to your specifications for only about P2,000 each.

I don't like having to buy only what is available, no true survivalist would.

 

 

 

Wait, you must be talking about 4" blocks.

In that case, you can make 50 per sack.

If you are making 6" blocks, you get 42-42, but 8" blocks should be no more than 40 blocks per sack.

Sorry, I pretty much think 8" blocks as the standard.

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SkyMan

I have not researched block makers so i can not comment on the cost. I have however done extensive research into buying a mixer . A one bagger - new, with a choice of either diesel or gas engine runs just shy of 50,000 pesos .

When you say new do you mean new or newly refurbished like a multicab? Belmont Tools has refurbs with a new 7.5HP Subaru engine for p44.5K.

Where is this block maker? We were looking at a used one a while back and it was more than that. Hmmm maybe I should sell the block makers?

Sorry, I was a little off. Belmont Tools prices for block makers are...

 

4" makes 3 @ a time p24K currently not in stock in Mandaue. p68 per plate so 200 plates about p14K so p38K all in

6" makes 3 @ a time p27.5 p85 per plate or p44.5K with 200 plates

 

To save some $ it is possible to use it with only 3 plates if the fresh blocks are immediately flipped onto plywood squares for curing like the by hand block makers use.

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thebob

 

The locals want 4" and 6" only, but I refused to make 4", too thin to support a 2nd floor as far as I am concerned.

 

 

This just doesn't make any sense to me. Hollow block shouldn't be used as a structural support. The material you are wasting with an 8 inch block could be spent on shuttering, and then you could just cast a 2 inch thick monolithic structure that would be cheaper, stronger and have less thermal mass.

 

 

By adding more cement to blocks, you are adding more heat to the cure, which speeds up the hydration leading to a weaker block.

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Brucewayne

This just doesn't make any sense to me. Hollow block shouldn't be used as a structural support. The material you are wasting with an 8 inch block could be spent on shuttering, and then you could just cast a 2 inch thick monolithic structure that would be cheaper, stronger and have less thermal mass.

 

 

By adding more cement to blocks, you are adding more heat to the cure, which speeds up the hydration leading to a weaker block.

 

 

The time, labor and cost of the cement you waste by filling the blocks is wrong and a proper structure should rest on at least the outside walls which in turn helps to keep them from falling in on you.

The free standing roof above the walls is a waste of time and money, you gain nothing by building that way.

Besides when you fill the blocks, you are destroying any thermal insulation benefit a hollow block offers and might as well build forms and make a solid wall to begin with.

The way they do it here is to add stucco to the outside, which is fine, but then they only add stucco to the inside, or they may have to build another thin wall to contain insulation to block out the heat generated by the solid cement wall.

Edited by Brucewayne

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Cuda

This just doesn't make any sense to me. Hollow block shouldn't be used as a structural support. The material you are wasting with an 8 inch block could be spent on shuttering, and then you could just cast a 2 inch thick monolithic structure that would be cheaper, stronger and have less thermal mass.

 

 

By adding more cement to blocks, you are adding more heat to the cure, which speeds up the hydration leading to a weaker block.

I don't want to get into this too deep but you have no idea about 8" hollow block load bearingproperties and 2 inch thick load bearing structure is just laughable.

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