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cookie47

The below link is a PHILIPPINES company advertising Insulation options/solution's,BUT it might be a bit late..

https://kasselph.com/

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Looks like you have the first item taken care of -- a white roof.   Your vents under the overhang are not enough.  Google soffit vent for ideas that may apply to you.   Looks like putting in

We just cut long strips of plywood and tacked them up to hold the sheet in place, The side ones over lap so you can just slide the new sheet underneath before fixing. Just like putting up wallpaper. F

Tree shade is good but keep the branches off the house or you'll be inviting the ants in.   If you can find biriba trees to plant that's my personal favorite.  Quick growth with a nice mix of ver

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hyaku
25 minutes ago, cookie47 said:

One of the best decisions we made in Cebu was to have ALL our windows tinted.(two story house).. Fortunately my BIL is a car tinter so it was easy and a no brainier to get done.I must say when we have visitors (particularly from home owners in the same sub division) comments about the coolness are regular ..

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Double glazed some of my windows with mirrored glass. I now have "silent room". Not too noisy where I live but I cant hear it anyway.

1 hour ago, cookie47 said:

This is the product that I was mentioning.Comes with adjustable rotating angled base so as to follow the roof line so ends up vertical.Not very cosmeticly appealing but does work in "most" circumstances79b2acbd5ea5ff4fb22fd2b2b166c231.jpg

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I considered that but torrential rain is so strong here, water will pour down the inside and destroy the ceiling. 

15 hours ago, to_dave007 said:

How many hours each day do the walls of the house, and the windows, have direct sunlight on them?  Direct sunlight through the windows adds a lot of heat.  Warm concrete also adds a lot of heat.

Your solution may not be entirely in your attic.  Some well placed trees may help.

Now why would you have a tree next to a house in a typhoon prone country?  

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cookie47

Yeh, fair enough,,,The net is full of opinions ,I found a Thai forum,,, as normal it always is for and against about 50/50) about the entry of water with the rotating vents .The common feeling is that in heavy rain the wind throws the water off the rotating element (but not sure about Light drizzle) .It is Said that water entry is more commonly caused by poor fitment. So I'm gonna stay in middle ground here .I mean those revolving vents have been fitted to commercial factories literally for year's,(there not a new idea) so I don't Know..

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hyaku
19 minutes ago, cookie47 said:

Yeh, fair enough,,,The net is full of opinions ,I found a Thai forum,,, as normal it always is for and against about 50/50) about the entry of water with the rotating vents .The common feeling is that in heavy rain the wind throws the water off the rotating element (but not sure about Light drizzle) .It is Said that water entry is more commonly caused by poor fitment. So I'm gonna stay in middle ground here .I mean those revolving vents have been fitted to commercial factories literally for year's,(there not a new idea) so I don't Know..

Not from the net, practical experience.  The rain bounces off the roof. I lived in a house with a wide capped chimney vent for the gas hob twice that height. The kitchen used to flood. It also depends on your roof apex. I checked the roof excellent seal all around it. No light drizzles here. It buckets down at least once a day. Two typhoons bent and doubled over the the metal bracket holding my TV dish.   

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cookie47

I wasn't making assumptions based only on the Net.I was merely furthering my knowledge about what OTHER people thought about water ingress in tropicle countries with that type of ventilator and thanks for you comments. .I lived in Darwin for 16 years and do know a bit about heavy rain including two cyclones/typhoons one of which was Cylone Tracy.. I'll leave it up to the OP to decide his method/direction.

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hyaku
1 hour ago, cookie47 said:

I wasn't making assumptions based only on the Net.I was merely furthering my knowledge about what OTHER people thought about water ingress in tropicle countries with that type of ventilator and thanks for you comments. .I lived in Darwin for 16 years and do know a bit about heavy rain including two cyclones/typhoons one of which was Cylone Tracy.. I'll leave it up to the OP to decide his method/direction.

I base mine having lived in Asia over 40 years. In total two roofs and a car lost to typhoons. Yolanda going right over the top of us bent the satellite dish bracket. The insulation works for me. It cut both heat and sound. The carpenter burned his hand badly putting it in between the insulation and roof. It gets very hot up there. We put it up in the only extension that had not been done. I then removed the extractor fan that was blowing cold air.   

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lamoe

I was curious for family house in Bohol

For a quick and relatively inexpensive solution - might be able to find local vendor for fan

P12,000 / 15,000 with wiring installation?

BTW - 21,000 CMH = 350 CFM  = 12,360 CFM through an opening (window 3' x 1') = a 47 Mph / 75Kmh breeze 

http://www.engineering.com/calculators/airflow.htm

We learned to secure open interior doors :biggrin_01:

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Ventilation-Exhaust-Fan-Ventilation-Exhaust-Fan_60552494414.html?spm=a2700.7735675.normalList.126.40cdf342zBDeBA&s=p

image.thumb.png.074146332b3ff4c6a2834b0716ab5c65.png

image.thumb.png.6ae80bd5d3d74e4b91de8ca0ef3194c8.png

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cookie47

A couple of information and idea graphics

unnamed.jpg

f1825740c8c654cc0b66307f6e27bb10.jpg

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lv2play
4 hours ago, hyaku said:

 

images.jpg

thanks a lot for all the reactions, i used this kind of insulation, not the usual 5mm but 10 mm.

all my windows are tinted and mirrored

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lv2play

thanks a lot for all the reactions

to_dave007: the walls and windows dont have much sun, the roof at the other hand has full sun all day, the heat comes clearly from above.

i have enough windows, a terras infront and at the backside and a 1 meter overhang all around the house and terrasses

 

 

 

rfm010: a white roof was an option but not from my wife and  brown it was. Sometimes you shouldn't listen but to hear for years and years that she liked brown better is also no option.The roof is insulated with 10mm insulation. As i said  before the overhang vents were too small, guess i still need a lot more and probasble wider.

good luck with your termites and every advice is welcome, i have no wood in the attic, everything is steel and hardiflex

 

cookie47: a good one, i have no ridgeline vent and will consider a small reconstruction. Problem is the rainfall, also a rotating roof vent scares the shit out of me, it might work for yeears but it will start leaking one day.the roof is insulated with 10mm insulation.

 

 

Paddy "We have a grid arrangement of metal furring strips to support hardiflex panels which would make it a tiresome job to fit fibreglass batts (while working in a very hot space!)""

Same here, roof is completely insulated, all the metal and steel bars will hold also the heat

""At this point I’d probably look for a powered extractor fan (possibly thermostat controlled and possibly more than 1) to install somewhere out of the way in the soffit. I would expect the soffit vents and general non-airtight nature of metal roofing sheets to allow sufficient (cooler) air intake."" 

this might be one of the best options

HYAKU: i used this kind of insulation, not the usual 5mm but 10 mm.

all my windows are tinted and mirrored and not in the full sun for a long time.

The tree beside my house is not mine, and will not collapse during a typhone, the lot is for sale and i wanted to cut the tree because it,s branches were reaching my roof.The neighbour at the other side, a baptist church, claimed that there was a white lady ( big thing in phils ) living in the tree so i cut only all branches on my side,lol. i can plant small trees, no problem with typhones.

 

lamoe: thanks for your info, i will look into it

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trthebees

I've tried hunting back through the forum as there's good information from when this topic has been discussed before. However...going off topic!...it's a bit cranky cos I only seem to get my posts from the last year so can't find anything that way, , And using the search function, each time I go from the first page of the results to the next it tells me to wait before attempting another search, which is rather odd. I'm sure someone more up on these things can tell me what I'm doing wrong.

Anyway, back to topic. There was a fair bit of discussion about the positioning of the insulation, and favour for the idea that an air gap between the insulation and the surface, ceiling or roof sheets, is beneficial. The idea that insulation is laid on the ceiling or direct to the sheets could be that it's convenient. When we built our second house [first is native, very cool in both ways!] we laid a grid of tie wire over the ceiling beams and put the insulation on top of that. Second is rather similar to yours.

I think in your case I would consider creating a lattice of tie wire to support insulation against the underside of the roof rafters. Use a decent thickness to help self support and increase insulation effect, maybe foil both sides if available to keep cleaner. From previous discussions, this should work better having an air gap than being squashed under the roof sheets. And also, being squashed where the screws are makes the insulation ineffective, having no bubble thickness. It's also easy to retrofit and not too expensive.

Attics here are always rather warm, and there's good stuff above about ventilation. But this insulation should help. I know that when someone asks me to fix their light in a simple house with GI sheets, even at 8 in the morning touching the sheets is painful!

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lv2play

 trthebees 
Funny i read this before but didn,t remember where and couldn,t find it here on the site.

it,s a possibility only it will be very hard for constructors/carpenters, it,s a hudge space 17x14 meter, very difficult to work because of one small manhole and electricity everywhere, also bloody hot without airflow.

 

 

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HongKongPhooey
21 hours ago, lamoe said:

image.thumb.png.6ae80bd5d3d74e4b91de8ca0ef3194c8.png

We have these. Makes good sense right? Just be prepared for them to be slammed every two minutes. 

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Headshot

Another option is to install a cupola on the house's ridge-line with metal louvers that are open when a whole-house attic fan is operating (or the air in the attic becomes too warm), but closed when it is not. That will allow warm air out, but keep wind and water out. Something like this...

517203462_0Cupola.jpg.d20c565f2c328bc441c108f8853e299d.jpg

With the same kind of louvers you find on whole-house fans...

184660498_0whole-house-fan.jpg.f4e55c16d5b7a971e2656a16c88563ee.jpg

The louvers interlock to prevent air or water from entering...

358720318_0louvers.jpg.02afaff01eb5855e24053ae593867d59.jpg

Putting reflective tinting on the windows (especially with double or triple glazing) would probably also help keep the house cool (as Cookie47 said).

Edited by Headshot
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lamoe
10 hours ago, HongKongPhooey said:

We have these. Makes good sense right? Just be prepared for them to be slammed every two minutes. 

 

Don't use as a door - use as giant soffit vent - use toggle bolts so it can be taken down and cleaned 

I admit the screen door is a bit of overkill according to this chart - 531 / 144 = 3.6 sqft x 2 for 50% screen mesh loss = 7.2 sqft-  could get away with a homemade screen and frame but one shown looks nicer. I used the door for esthetics, was visible from 2nd floor pouch,

image.png.d54fe89474b0c1fa8b998b8d58fbd090.png

Edited by lamoe
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