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Maintenance Items you may be ignoring


SkyMan

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SkyMan

And it might be costing you money.  I only have one to add here but maybe others would have some other maintenance experiences or general good maintenance advice they are free to add here.  Particularly in a country were maintenance only occurs after damage and sometimes severe damage.

Being westerners we change our oil/filters and air filters regularly and check the air in our tires often.  You do check the air in your tires, right?  If you wait for the odd bulge in your tire, that's too long.  We know that proper pressure in the tires prolongs their life, gives you a better ride/handling, and it's just safer.

But in the west we normally don't have pressure tanks on our water systems as many here do so we are unfamiliar with the maintenance required.  When was the last time you checked the air pressure in your pressure tank?  If it's been more than a year, that's probably not a good answer.  Over time, the pressure in the bladder drops unnoticeably slowly. If the pre-set pressure in your pressure tank is too low, your pump is probably working a lot harder and more often to give you water and that's costing you money and your pump will wear out quicker.  If you have a pressure tank, turn off the pump, drain the tank (turn on a faucet), and check.  I believe the proper pressure should be 1/2 to 2/3 of what your pump is set to provide.  Or about the pressure level your pump is set to turn on at.  If you need to add air and you don't have your own compressor, it's probably not hard to find someone to bring one to your place or depending on your tank, it may be easier to remove it and take it to a Vulcanizer or machine shop and pump it there.  Of course, don't remove it with the system at pressure.

 

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And it might be costing you money.  I only have one to add here but maybe others would have some other maintenance experiences or general good maintenance advice they are free to add here.  Particular

I was looking for light switches. As for asking the help, waste of time, I never bother. If they come and watch me, I ask if they need some help finding something.

@Dafey for you have a look here  https://www.firefold.com/blogs/news/solid-vs-stranded-cable-the-pros-and-cons-of-each

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With own well had the pressure tank - never had before - after 20 years had to replace - noticed pump cycling often

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HongKongPhooey

Question on not so much maintenance but more about pressure tank in general - my in-laws shut the tank off every night to save electricity, which I don’t understand since it shuts itself off when at the right pressure. Is this messing anything up or is it not a problem? I did google this but could only find RV/mobile home discussions. Sorry if this ruins the intent of your thread...

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1 hour ago, HongKongPhooey said:

Question on not so much maintenance but more about pressure tank in general - my in-laws shut the tank off every night to save electricity, which I don’t understand since it shuts itself off when at the right pressure. Is this messing anything up or is it not a problem? I did google this but could only find RV/mobile home discussions. Sorry if this ruins the intent of your thread...

Fire hazard/fire prevention ?????

In Philippines people are advised to shut off and/or unplug all appliances when leaving the house

good idea to do it at night also, so you do not burn in while sleeping

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Speaking of maintenance, but not speaking of pressure tanks,  dont forget to occasionally check everything in the house made of wood or cardboard for termites.

especially where cardboard sheets are being stored tucked in between the wall and the wood cabinet on top of wooden floorboards in the sewing room.  For example.

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The type of pressure tank I have (with an internal bladder) is easily tested by unscrewing a cap on the “back” and using a regular automotive pressure gauge. The set empty pressure should be a couple of psi below the turn on pressure of the pressure switch. We have another pressure tank on a 2nd system that is just a tank, no bladder. Nothing to do there unless a welded seam corrodes (and some earlier tanks did just that!!)
 

The tendency here seems to be to use lower system pressures than we might use normally in the west. I suspect that a poorly glued blue pipe system would not withstand the pressure a well soldered copper pipe system would - so maybe that’s where it comes from. 
 

A standard pressure switch would likely come set at 20 on/40 off. Both our systems are adjusted to “about” 15+ on, 35 off. I had to let some air out of the bladder pressure tank to get that system working properly. 
 

On maintenance, if your pump sounds like it wants to shake itself apart - it probably should be replaced. A year or so ago our “plumbers” said they would install a good pump. I’ve just replaced it with a truly better one. The old pump let the neighborhood know when the brownout was over. I doubt anyone can hear the new one. I certainly can’t!😀

A noisy pump might be the reason people switch off the pump at night. We were getting to that point...If the water system has no leaks and the pressure switch/tank are working correctly, the pump will not consume electricity unless  someone turns on a tap. If the pump is cycling at night and no one is using water, there’s a leak somewhere.

Also on maintenance, I took the pump replacement opportunity to fix the need to cut blue pipe in the future. Now all three lines (2 in, 1 out) have either a screw down coupler or screw down check valve as appropriate. Now I can either remove the pump or the pipes in the well independently. (ALL the well drillers I’ve spoken to don’t seem to have heard of continuous hose in the well and I can’t seem to get the right stuff here).
 

The stuff at the bottom of the well will likely require maintenance from time to time especially if any cheap metal fittings have been used there (yep, our “plumbers” did that too!) since they will likely corrode. You can tell when that happens by the fact that the pump will no longer hold prime. I got a freebie with the new pump which I “think” is an injector to prime line connector. It’s gray plastic but looks like it will glue to a blue prime line pipe. The plastic part has a Venturi in it at one end. I’m thinking it would assist the “self-prime” operation of (what they call here) a double suction pump. I might install it next time we have to pull the injector/foot valve. I’ll have to research it some more.

Back in Canada, at the cottage, in 1990 or thereabouts, we had a well drilled and installed a pump and tank. To my knowledge, all the original bits are still in place and working. It’s a seasonal cottage and doesn’t get a lot of use mind. 
 

Sorry, quite a long post. If anyone wants pics (not of anything at the bottom of the well please!😀), let me know. 

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SkyMan
8 hours ago, Paddy said:

(ALL the well drillers I’ve spoken to don’t seem to have heard of continuous hose in the well and I can’t seem to get the right stuff here).

I think you're talking about HDPE pipe.  There's a place about half a mile from my house that makes HDPE pipe.  They used to make a lot of sizes but last time I was there they only made 1 1/4 and 2 inch ID.  Luckily 1 1/4 is exactly what I need.  It normally comes in 60 meter lengths but my well is slightly deeper so I was able to talk them into making me a 100 meter length so I don't have a coupling in the well.  The SDR value of the pipe is the rated pressure, lower SDR=higher pressure.  So for the supply line on your jet pump you an SDR able to handle the max surface pressure plus however many atmospheres for the depth of the venturi.

 

8 hours ago, Paddy said:

I suspect that a poorly glued blue pipe system would not withstand the pressure a well soldered copper pipe system would - so maybe that’s where it comes from. 

That and the leaky faucets they have here.  That comes from carp quality and they have this desire to leave a faucet dribbling into a bucket while they do dishes or whatever.  I've had to tell my caretaker's family several times to turn it on full and fill the bucket, then off until you need more.  My above ground system is Atlanta brand blue PVC  but the new house will be PPR.  I run at 60 PSI.

9 hours ago, Paddy said:

We have another pressure tank on a 2nd system that is just a tank, no bladder.

How does that work?

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1 hour ago, SkyMan said:

How does that work?

It actually works quite well (no pun intended). The tank fills and then it’s pressurized (just by continuing to pump). The biggest problem is getting a tank made of a suitable material plus quality welded seams - all to resist corrosion. A few years back, when this was installed, the availability of the bladder type tank was poor. They’re much easier to get here now.

I am envious of your continuous hose in the well. I just don’t trust the folks here to do a proper job connecting the lengths of blue pipe plus having to cut and add more straight couplings every time something has to be done in the well. Done properly, it works OK but is not the best for maintenance. 
 

I’m sure if I tried to run at 60psi there would be a) looks of horror from the “professionals” and b) leaks everywhere throughout the house!

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1 minute ago, Paddy said:

It actually works quite well (no pun intended). The tank fills and then it’s pressurized (just by continuing to pump). The biggest problem is getting a tank made of a suitable material plus quality welded seams - all to resist corrosion. A few years back, when this was installed, the availability of the bladder type tank was poor. They’re much easier to get here now.

I am envious of your continuous hose in the well. I just don’t trust the folks here to do a proper job connecting the lengths of blue pipe plus having to cut and add more straight couplings every time something has to be done in the well. Done properly, it works OK but is not the best for maintenance. 
 

I’m sure if I tried to run at 60psi there would be a) looks of horror from the “professionals” and b) leaks everywhere throughout the house!

Had pro examine US houses before buying - bugs, foundation, insulation, heat leakage, etc.

Did a pressure test of well  - first tried all water outlets then set pump at 125PSI - turned off pump - 6 hours later checked all walls / areas that had water pipes in them - set to 65PSI / was 40

10 years? later water pipe under garage basement floor separated - house settled over 15 years - builder didn't use single pipe originally / bad joint..

Thinking of adding 20 gal tank in sun -  for Bohol 2nd floor CR supply - the main tank in shade -  can't get really hot water and high flow  - I know heater too small - 30 A breaker.

BIL (the "expert") on house wiring selected it  - I paid - having looked at what is used - probably right

Used stranded wire / twists with "solid wire push in" outlets - I added outlets to our BR - used solid wire

 

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5 minutes ago, lamoe said:

Thinking of adding 20 gal tank in sun -  for Bohol 2nd floor CR supply - the main tank in shade -  can't get really hot water and high flow  - I know heater too small - 30 A breaker.

what is the watt rating of the heater,   does the breaker supply heater only ??

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23 minutes ago, lamoe said:

Used stranded wire / twists with "solid wire push in" outlets - I added outlets to our BR - used solid wire

We used MASELCO registered electricians. They did the same thing. I didn’t say anything - but it seems pretty clear to me if the outlet says “solid” use solid not stranded (it’s also easier to use solid wire in a push in fitting)!

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3 minutes ago, Woolf said:

what is the watt rating of the heater,   does the breaker supply heater only ??

 4,500 W?, dedicated.

One in condo is 5,500 W (Alpha LH-1,000)

 

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38 minutes ago, lamoe said:

Thinking of adding 20 gal tank in sun -  for Bohol 2nd floor CR supply - the main tank in shade -  can't get really hot water and high flow  - I know heater too small - 30 A breaker.

30A breaker should be sufficient - that’s 6.6kW at 220v. 
These heaters normally have both a “temperature” dial and a flow rate valve. For a nice, hot shower our Panasonics need top quarter of the temp dial and a steady state flow a bit less than the 35 PSI of the water system max pressure. If the pressure is cycling too much with the pump cycling, you probably would get warm/hot cycling too. 
You might find it easier to get consistent water temperature by using a larger pressure tank and playing with the flow rate valve to try and get a more consistent pressure during a shower?...

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SkyMan
1 hour ago, Paddy said:

It actually works quite well (no pun intended). The tank fills and then it’s pressurized (just by continuing to pump).

So it's just high pressure in the tank and then you have a regulator on the output to the house?

1 hour ago, Paddy said:

I am envious of your continuous hose in the well.

Check with your OBO.  They can probably source an HDPE supplier for you.  I would buy what you need now and store it until you pull it next time.  If you do that make sure you have the right connectors.  My pump system came with a 1 1/4 stainless connector for the HDPE, threaded for the pump and the other end with like 5 barbs on it.  I needed the same for the other end but nothing like that here so I bought a stainless nipple and had a shop with a lathe machine in similar barbs.  To insert the barb ends I basically whittled a piece of coco lumber into a wooden dildo.  I oiled that up and put it inside the connector sticking out of the barbs.  Heated the HDPE and inserted.  The dildo was necessary to keep the edge of the connector from gouging into the HDPE.  

I don't think you need as high

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RogerDuMond
35 minutes ago, lamoe said:

  can't get really hot water and high flow  - I know heater too small - 30 A breaker.

Just a thought, our inline water heater in the shower won't turn on when the water pressure is too low.

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