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Jimone

New house in Lapu Lapu

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Jimone

So we are rebuilding, rebuilding, my wife's house that we built 6 odd years ago because the white ants have eaten it.. This is some up to date info on costs for anyone interested.. It is all block and concrete, ground floor an one more on top, and 15 foot by 30 foot I think,, but will check that... We have two builders and two helpers on the job, one builder is the brother in law of my wife's brother. We are going half's with my wife's sister who lives in the US. All costs I give are total not halved. Weekly wages cost is around 10,000 peso, and the estimate was 300,000 peso complete job... They are poring the top floor today,, Will add more when I can get some sense from the misses... 

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Headshot
2 hours ago, Jimone said:

So we are rebuilding, rebuilding, my wife's house that we built 6 odd years ago because the white ants have eaten it..

Is "white ants" a euphemism for termites? Subterranean termites are a real threat here. Anything made of wood is subject to attack and destruction by them.

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Gus
Is "white ants" a euphemism for termites? Subterranean termites are a real threat here. Anything made of wood is subject to attack and destruction by them.
Yes

Sent from my Mi A2 Lite using Tapatalk

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Jimone
35 minutes ago, Headshot said:

Is "white ants" a euphemism for termites? Subterranean termites are a real threat here. Anything made of wood is subject to attack and destruction by them.

Yep, termites,, had a add up of cost so far,, 166,000 peso including labour.. that is with the first floor slab done.. ground floor will be done later.. 

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Headshot

In the Philippines, you have to remember that any wood in a house WILL be eaten by termites unless it is properly protected. My home is mainly constructed of concrete, cement grout, steel and foam, so I thought it would be pretty much termite proof, but I did use wood for doors and trim (base board, crown molding and door trim). You get two guesses as to what the termites have attacked...

In the future, I will use the trick that I learned recently. Use a borax/water mixture to paint the bare wood prior to painting to let the borax soak into the wood, and let it dry completely before painting. Then, mix borax into the latex paint that you use for all wood doors and trim, and paint ALL surfaces (including the backs, ends and bottoms of trim. The borax will kill the queens as they attempt to burrow into the wood to build a nest. You also need to liberally caulk any wood trim, so there are NO gaps between the trim and the wall or floor surfaces. That makes it so the queens have no place to get in. The borax/water mixture can also be used on any unpainted wood structural members in your home to help prevent future termite attacks there as well, but all surfaces must be protected, or it won't work.

All of this requires prior planning and training, as contractors and carpenters here have no standard method for preventing termite attacks, so they don't worry about it. Termite attacks over time is assumed, but it doesn't have to be so. I have used a borax and sugar water mixture to kill ant colonies here for years (it works very well), but I hadn't thought about its potential to prevent termite attacks if applied to wood surfaces. I won't make that mistake again.

Edited by Headshot
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Billy Johnson
10 hours ago, Headshot said:

In the Philippines, you have to remember that any wood in a house WILL be eaten by termites unless it is properly protected. My home is mainly constructed of concrete, cement grout, steel and foam, so I thought it would be pretty much termite proof, but I did use wood for doors and trim (base board, crown molding and door trim). You get two guesses as to what the termites have attacked...

In the future, I will use the trick that I learned recently. Use a borax/water mixture to paint the bare wood prior to painting to let the borax soak into the wood, and let it dry completely before painting. Then, mix borax into the latex paint that you use for all wood doors and trim, and paint ALL surfaces (including the backs, ends and bottoms of trim. The borax will kill the queens as they attempt to burrow into the wood to build a nest. You also need to liberally caulk any wood trim, so there are NO gaps between the trim and the wall or floor surfaces. That makes it so the queens have no place to get in. The borax/water mixture can also be used on any unpainted wood structural members in your home to help prevent future termite attacks there as well, but all surfaces must be protected, or it won't work.

All of this requires prior planning and training, as contractors and carpenters here have no standard method for preventing termite attacks, so they don't worry about it. Termite attacks over time is assumed, but it doesn't have to be so. I have used a borax and sugar water mixture to kill ant colonies here for years (it works very well), but I hadn't thought about its potential to prevent termite attacks if applied to wood surfaces. I won't make that mistake again.

When building a home how to best treat the earth under your home?

ive treated the wood door frames with the termite liquid you buy in the hardware stores and within one year they ate the whole door frame so we had to use concrete door frame

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Headshot
12 hours ago, Billy Johnson said:

When building a home how to best treat the earth under your home?

The best way to treat the ground under a home for termite prevention is to apply Chlordane to the ground, but I don't know if it is still sold anyplace in the world. It was banned in the US in 1988 due to health risks.

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Davaoeno

So your recommendation is that he use a chemical that has been found to be so dangerous that it is banned in most countries?

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Headshot
24 minutes ago, Davaoeno said:

So your recommendation is that he use a chemical that has been found to be so dangerous that it is banned in most countries?

Nope. I am just saying that it is the only thing that was ever found effective against termites. As far as I know, it isn't even available anymore.

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Ozepete

Best way to prevent white ant (termite) damage is to not use wood unless exposed ... simple

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Jimone

New update,, on Saturday they poured the second floor..  They started around 7 am and finished around 9 pm.. Our four guys plus two casual guys did the most,, a couple of guys from the estate being built next door came over to help after they finished,,, All the concrete was mixed by hand on a sheet of iron and bucketed into place,, The photos are from the pour and from work on Monday... 

 

OOPS,, one of the misses on the way to work sneaked it's way in ,,,,, 

 

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SkyMan

For a pour that big, did you consider just hiring a truck and pumper? The cement company can also bring a crew with power floats etc. Very experienced, fast and not so much more expensive as you might think. Result is very flat, strong, and consistent. 

Beautiful wife btw

Edited by SkyMan
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Jimone

The build continues,, this is from Friday 15th.. I did ask about getting premix and pump ect,, but our builder wanted to do it, so happy to let them.. Don't know why the water tank was not moved before, sitting in the middle of the floor, still attached to the ground... will move it latter apparently.. there will be a reason,, whether it is logical or not is another question,, I have learnt over the past ten plus years,, something are best to just let go.... lol   

 

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Edited by Jimone
typo
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Jimone

Almost ready for the roof... have a look at the bracing for the overhang... 

 

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Sibonga Simon
1 hour ago, Jimone said:

Almost ready for the roof... have a look at the bracing for the overhang... 

 

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You can only smile......

 

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