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SkyMan

Interesting piece arguing against inverter split AC

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fred42
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Usually it says 12-16sqm room needs 1HP, 16-24sqm needs 1.5HP and so on.My advice is, for 12-14sqm 1HP is ok, 14-16 you should already go for 1.5 - until 20sqm, then you should already consider a 2HP over 20sqm.

 

Our units are mainly 1 HP window type A/C`s and are 35sq mtrs..In 5 years,no complaints so we stick with them!

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PeteHK

I have mentioned on a couple of earlier threads our experience with a/cs and other appliances and electrical fittings.  We have progressively switched from wall mounted a/cs to split inverter type.  We have six in total, five Panasonic and one Hitachi.  One Panasonic was bought second hand from a relative leaving Cebu - the rest were bought new.  We also have an inverter refrigerator and washing machine.  All our light bulbs are LED, mostly 5w or 7w.  Before we switched to inverter appliances our Veco bill was usually around P13,500-14,500 per month.  Now it is usually around P8,000-9,000 and this is with running the machines more than we used to do because we want to feel more comfortable especially in the evenings during the really hot season.

We have had only one issue with one of the Panasonic machines which is that the small motor that controls the opening and closing of the front vents jammed and we are still waiting for a replacement.  The machine works fine otherwise.

The calculation I have used to estimate the cooling requirement in each room is one I think originates in Australia and it is basically the volume of the room (NOT the floor area - rooms with different ceiling heights can have very different cooling requirements) so length x breadth x height of ceiling x 6 (to give the BTU cooling need).  I am not an aircon expert so I cannot vouch for the credibility or validity of this formula.  All I can say is that it seems to work for us.  

We have not had any gecko issues although we certainly have them around and can see them easily enough at night.

One other issue in our house was that the original a/c fitting points in the external wall were located only about 8-10 inches about floor level.  This made no sense to me at all as I thought the cooling effect would be much more pronounced if they were set much higher up in the wall.  Anyway, with the split units this issue has been effectively dealt with.

So yes we have spent quite a bit on our energy saving efforts but for us I feel they have worked pretty well.

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Headshot
4 hours ago, SkyMan said:

What brand are the new ones?

One point that might be worth mentioning is that if you're on solar or contemplating it, I would think the inverter type would be better as you aren't going full on with the compressor all the time.

Hitachi

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smokey
5 hours ago, Headshot said:

Read my post again. We were having maintenance issues with the non-inverter units. In other words, as far as I was concerned, they were broke. With the electricity we are saving, the investment will pay for itself in less than two years. That doesn't sound like much of a gamble to me.

Ok but i have no maintence problems so far after 14 years my units are trane and installed in the ceilings and we have a ac guy to service them 3 times a year

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Jester
8 hours ago, smokey said:

Ok but i have no maintence problems so far after 14 years my units are trane and installed in the ceilings and we have a ac guy to service them 3 times a year

If your systems are the old R22 should last a long time.  The new ones are R410A and run at extreme high pressure and are a completely different animal, requiring proper install. 

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Jester

The only thing I know about AC charts is they are completely useless and far too often oversize equipment, which is a very bad thing in hot humid weather.   The charts should be removed from the net!  One chart told me to put 30,000 btu into an area served by a 12,000 btu mini! 

The inverter mini's modulate, a 9000 btu unit will run between 2000 and 11000 btu.  which can compensate some for over sizing, but they are more efficient working at the higher btu.  They also start at a low setting and ramp up, another saving. 

In the west a load calculator is used,  it is no longer a rule of thumb or the installers best guess.  Down to a science!   Do not know what they have in the P's? In US a manual J is used and many areas require a manual j before issuing a permit. 

This is a whole house calculator and is Manual J based! 

http://www.loadcalc.net/

 

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Raven

The solution, to Tiki or salt-moisture, should be a quite simple process... When I worked in the Electronic Manufacturing business, some 35 years ago, we coated the circuited boards, which was to be placed in challenging environments! 

"Conformal coating material is a thin polymeric film which conforms to the contours of a printed circuit board to protect the board's components. Typically applied at 25-250 μm[1](micrometers) thickness, it is applied to electronic circuitry to protect against moisture, dust, chemicals, and temperature extremes." Wikipedia

 

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SkyMan

I was thinking maybe just squeezing out a tube of clear silicone sealant onto any boards before installing to keep geckos and whatever from making contact.  I don't think it's conductive but not sure if it might cause heat problems?  Also may attract ants or something to eat it?

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Ozepete
46 minutes ago, SkyMan said:

I was thinking maybe just squeezing out a tube of clear silicone sealant onto any boards before installing to keep geckos and whatever from making contact.  I don't think it's conductive but not sure if it might cause heat problems?  Also may attract ants or something to eat it?

If you can pickup a can of Elmotherm 009-0008 Spray  or Elmotherm VA00 Clear 400 you can conformal coat any PCB's. Give a couple of coats to be sure.

If I lived in the phils with its high humidity, I would want to put spray coatings on all PCBs etc. Great stuff, we use on marine refrigeration system PCBs and I have seen them years later salt coated yet no sign of arcing out. 

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MickyG

we changed from non inverter to inverter saved over 4000 pesos a month. this paid for the 1hp carrier split in one year. No repair or other issues.

The two window 1 hp give as much as dry cooling as the 2hp and 1,5hp noninverters they replaced at a fraction of the running of the running costs. these two used to cost us 13,000 a month in the summer. my recent meralco bill came in at 4630. i am enjoying the far cheaper cool breeze as i type.

 

I know savings when I see them. let lone budget and pay for them!!

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Jester
8 hours ago, SkyMan said:

I was thinking maybe just squeezing out a tube of clear silicone sealant onto any boards before installing to keep geckos and whatever from making contact.  I don't think it's conductive but not sure if it might cause heat problems?  Also may attract ants or something to eat it?

Embedding circuit board in silicone was suggested for another project I was doing.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8ycmroFQSs

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