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trthebees

Multicab Brakes

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trthebees

Well I'm not daft around vehicles and machinery and have done most jobs.

But I think a little advice would come in handy.

My F5a 6 valve brakes have gone hard, I've checked vacuum hoses and the steel pipe, and I'm fairly certain the servo has failed. 

I want to replace it and the master cylinder, but it looks a right pig of a job hiding up behind the dash. Has anyone ever done this and could provide a few words of wisdom?

I'd also like to buy the parts in advance either in Cebu city or Dumaguete. Obviously new preferred for these important items and the fact it's an awkward job, I don't want to go to the city twice after trying used parts which aren't any good. Does anyone know of a good parts shop for such items new without taking samples first. A bit of a tall ask I know!

Thanks for any advice.

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Woolf

@shadow

This must be one for you to answer

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SkyMan

I don't think new is possible.  Perhaps rebuilt.  Surplus shops have them.  I forget what they're called but it's the whole assembly, master cylinder, pedals, the works.  I had someone change mine out and guys that have done it before can do it pretty fast as ugly as it looks.  I asked about a rebuild kit and got nothing.

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shadow

In Dumaguete, DAPCI or HVL.

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cookie47

, Hi I'm just wondering if you had have considered positively checking that you  have vacuum at the feed pipe (at the booster) which usually (but not always) has the "check valve" attached to it. This as you have correctly pointed out is on the side of the booster reservoir under the dash which is a PITA to get too. 

Also an inline check valve can also be fitted "somewhere" in the steel line section. 

The most common is the one at the booster and traditionally look like a plastic banjo. In all the vehicles I've worked on in the course of the motor trade not very many I've changed was a fault with the booster assembly or the diaphragm unless the chamber was rusted. OR the reaction valve was faulty. The check valve disc can leak due to dirt, OR, the feed pipe at the inlet manifold can get blocked with dried oil bypassed into the inlet manifold. This doesn't allow vacuum to build. 

So I'm not there so i could be wrong, but the test/checks i describe are standard proceed in a workshop environment prior to changing the booster. 

David 

 

 

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trthebees

And thanks Thanks for the replies. I'll do a double check cookie for vacuum at the booster just in case, never know your luck. And thanks shadow for the suggestions in Dumaguete.

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cookie47
And thanks Thanks for the replies. I'll do a double check cookie for vacuum at the booster just in case, never know your luck. And thanks shadow for the suggestions in Dumaguete.
Another issue I've found is its possible for the rubber vacuum hose at the manifold to harden with age and a loos it's elasticity and either leak or crack or in the worst case fall off completely,Although completely falling off would cause a massive vacuum leak and stalling.

As I'm not there i can only offer you every scenario I've come across.

Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk

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jtmwatchbiz
5 minutes ago, cookie47 said:

As I'm not there i can only offer you every scenario I've come across.

yes i agree i would start by checking for vacuum right at the booster and if none then work my way back toward the intake manifold.   found many older engines suffering a bit of reversion and/or blow-by can have carbon buildup at vacuum ports.

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