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SkyMan

Front Vs. Top Load Washer

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GBT62
26 minutes ago, Bama said:

Perhaps not practical to deal with---perhaps you are renting but I wouldn't put up with the hard mineral water mess at my house if at all possible.Is there no type of water filtering system that could be installed ???

Yeah - renting for the next year or 2 .... not a lot I can do.

The whole-house water softeners are pretty expensive - and large - only really suitable if you own the place.  Vinegar is cheap enough in the interim.

I managed to find anti-scalant balls to drop in my 5 Stage RO/UV unit though - no more issues with the membrane clogging with minerals since I drop a few of those in. 

Seeing as I rent - that RO unit I made portable in a large stackable storage tub - I just plug it in - make a few of the large bottles for drinking and disconnect and put it away. There's really no way I can plumb that in permanently either.

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SkyMan
1 hour ago, GBT62 said:

If you were in Cebu - I'd say your solenoid was seized with mineral deposits - and to soak it in vinegar for 30 mins. I have to do my kettle, shower and tap nozzles every few weeks to clear them- and even the toilet float mechanism every 2 or 3 months when it seizes.

The water here is so damn hard with minerals....

 

Dawamn, I guess my well water isn't too bad.  I only have to do the shower head every 6 months or so, maybe even less.  I have a 20 and then 10 micron filter system.  My neighbor also had filters and got a softener installed for like p45K.  He had to dial it back a bit because it was a little dangerous (too slippery) in his shower.

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GBT62

off topic but .... you can see the buildup after about 7 days of 2 to 3 boils a day. It starts to break off in flakes then .... time to do a vinegar boil then. This water is solely for washing dishes etc .... I wouldn't drink it.

So - a washing machine solenoid - is a good candidate to clog after a couple of years of use. 

I have a dumb, cheap manual machine (twin tub ?) - no pumps involved, just gravity :D

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Edited by GBT62

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cookie47

@Heymike.

Although fill valves are a common culprit for not allowing a machine to fill there are two other causes which i have come across.

Another valve is the "Fill height valve".this as the name suggests tells the "fill valve" to turn on and off to what level of water you have selected.

The height valve has a clear plastic pipe from the bowl to the valve which is normally located on control panel. After year's if operation this pipe can get blocked or commonly fall off.

A pressure signal along that clear pipe to the water height selector valve tells the "fill valve" to open or close...

This is all done via the main circuit board which also can go faulty.

Checking the resistance across the coils of the fill valve/s is also a good idea,and also voltage at the valve before condemning the valve


BUT IM NOT TELLING YOU TO MESS WITH 230 VOLTS...

I found these other symptoms/faults after purchasing a fill valve which did not fix the problem... Thus i don't want you to purchase a part and not fix it..

Plus I'm not saying other members are wrong either with valves that are blocked with calcium.

This machine was a Whirlpool.

Note I'm not a qualified washing machine Tech but working 1000 kilometres from spare parts in Perth Western Australia on a cattle station you get used to fixing things yourself.

Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk

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Enuff

We have the Samsung 6kg eco-bubble front loader purchased 2 years ago from Imperial appliances in mandaue for p26k. We are a house of 9 and have lots of dirty clothes, towels, sheets, rags and mop heads.

 

We wash on average 3 to 4 loads daily. Every load is set on hot, with only cold water inlet it heats itself. Still working perfect. We use the sachets of Downy and Ariel to ensure no one is overloading with detergent or softener.

 

If it broke tomorrow I'd run out and get another one, I guess we washed about 3000 loads so far or about p8.5 per load, with softener and detergent it's about p20 total. Not bad since this machine sits outside under a roof only.

 

My clothes last a lot long than before when we washed by hand.

 

Sent from my CPH1819 using Tapatalk

 

 

We also use Tide Front load washer cleaner once a month as well. They are imported through Amazon

 

Sent from my CPH1819 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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HeyMike
9 minutes ago, cookie47 said:

@Heymike.

Although fill valves are a common culprit for not allowing a machine to fill there are two other causes which i have come across.

Another valve is the "Fill height valve".this as the name suggests tells the "fill valve" to turn on and off to what level of water you have selected.

The height valve has a clear plastic pipe from the bowl to the valve which is normally located on control panel. After year's if operation this pipe can get blocked or commonly fall off.

A pressure signal along that clear pipe to the water height selector valve tells the "fill valve" to open or close...

This is all done via the main circuit board which also can go faulty.

Checking the resistance across the coils of the fill valve/s is also a good idea,and also voltage at the valve before condemning the valve


BUT IM NOT TELLING YOU TO MESS WITH 230 VOLTS...

I found these other symptoms/faults after purchasing a fill valve which did not fix the problem... Thus i don't want you to purchase a part and not fix it..

Plus I'm not saying other members are wrong either with valves that are blocked with calcium.

This machine was a Whirlpool.

Note I'm not a qualified washing machine Tech but working 1000 kilometres from spare parts in Perth Western Australia on a cattle station you get used to fixing things yourself.

Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk
 

 

I appreciate the information Cookie. I will be checking the height valve also. I think this may be a long shot though, because when I fill the machine with the hose into the tub, the wash cycle will start automatically when the correct water level is in the machine. I am assuming the height valve gets its signal from the tub and not somewhere else, correct?

My machine is a Whirlpool also.

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cookie47
 
I appreciate the information Cookie. I will be checking the height valve also. I think this may be a long shot though, because when I fill the machine with the hose into the tub, the wash cycle will start automatically when the correct water level is in the machine. I am assuming the height valve gets its signal from the tub and not somewhere else, correct?
My machine is a Whirlpool also.
Yes your correct, by the fact it starts on its own when manually filling sort of counts that valve out.

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Jester

Cloths last longer??  My wife replaces her wardrobe about once a month!  My cloths are so old they are coming back in style and washed in a 10 year old cheap top loader that has never been serviced!

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cookie47

Had both top and front loaders. (In Melbourne) 

Top loader (Whirlpool) had 17 years, no issues apart from occasionally eating socks. Retrieve  from pump outlet. Low tech controls. 

Uses more water, maybe more noisier. 

Front loader, More high tech control's and programs, Faster spin, ours was 1100 rpm, clothes came out very dry., uses less water. 

Didn't like the loading height, I'm 6f.1 and bad back. 

Its possible to purchase a raised plinth (in Australia) to increase standing height which we did.. 

However with all its water saving and faster spin and better cleaning my wife liked the top loader. 

Thus we now have a somewhat budget Samsung from SM which does the job. 

 

 

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Goetz1965

I bought a Frontloader from BEKO in SM City 2 years ago. Its a Turkish company and has good recommendations worldwide. Was around 22K only. Come with 1 year warranty from SM - if it lasts 1 year it will sure last more too.

Frontloader is always better because the clothes tumble better inside instead of just getting pinned around  in top loaders. I used top loaders for 2 years and never was satisfied with the outcome.

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Headshot
1 hour ago, cookie47 said:

However with all its water saving and faster spin and better cleaning my wife liked the top loader.

There is really nothing more that needs to be said.

We have a top-loading Speed Queen. It is the only washer for sale here that has steel gears instead of plastic. It will likely last much longer than I will, and my wife and SIL like it because it saves them a lot of time. Some things still get hand-washed, but that is only because old habits die slowly. Regardless of which type of washing machine you buy, it will definitely be less destructive to clothes than hand-washing. On the other hand, Filipinas will always believe that hand-washing will get clothes cleaner.

PS...  I have never seen a good quality top-loader tie clothes in knots. That would really be something to see.

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SkyMan

Went with the 10.5Kg Samsung for 41,550 from Echo.  SM Cebu was about p500 more for the display model while Echo had 2 unopened units in the warehouse. I decided not to get the W/D version for about 6500 more. It just didn't seem worth it.  We can use solar and if she needs something fast she can iron it. 

This thing is heavy.  Substantially heavier than our similar sized Whirlpool top loader.  Came with a damn German type F plug. WTF? Does this look like Germany?  You would think Samsung would do some kind of market research. Had to cut that shite off and put on a real type B plug. Also came with a hose designed to clamp onto a faucet or a spigot without threads using 4 little screws that might work for a while.  The manual says there's supposed to be a nipple for a real spigot but it wasn't in the box.  Echo is supposed to be sending one out. I'm using the hose that was on the Whirlpool for now.

Setup was pretty easy. Removed 4 shipping stabilizer bolts and drained something out of the front.  Adjusted the feet. And then ran some calibration thing.  It's amazingly quiet. The only noise when the water was going in and I think that was just the first time pushing out the air. I had to go outside and look in the door to see if it was still running. 

The water gets really hot. We probably won't use hot a lot but this was kind of a test run with mostly some of my work clothes.  I didn't time it but pretty sure it was under an hour without prewash.  One feature that might be kind of useful is the delayed wash.  You can have it wait 1-24 hours to start.  So you can set it up and then go spend a night somewhere and then when you get back your clothes are just finished and ready to hang up without spending a lot of time clumped in the washer.  Not really a selling point but nice to have. 

Wife likes it so I'm happy with it.

 

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cookie47

We appear to have the 8.5 k version.
No heater, all cold wash.
Our tap adaptor that you describe(with the three screw's) just popped off (by pulling back the outer plastic housing) leaving a proper "normal" clip on hose connection, All we did was change the tap with a clip on nipple.. Maybe yours is different...
Our electrical plug however came with a standard Philippines 3 pin..

Its very quiet and the Mrs likes it and that's the main thing...




Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk

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wolfcreek

Top loaders with agitators tend not to tie clothes in knots. But top loaders with agitators are very rare in Asia.

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SkyMan
6 hours ago, cookie47 said:

Our tap adaptor that you describe(with the three screw's) just popped off (by pulling back the outer plastic housing) leaving a proper "normal" clip on hose connection, All we did was change the tap with a clip on nipple.. Maybe yours is different.

Ours is different because it uses 4 screws. Yes, squeezing the connector, the nipple pops out but that nipple is meant to screw onto the thing with the 4 screws and is too large to screw onto a standard 3/4 inch spigot.  The instructions say the proper nipple is provided. Samsung is coming Saturday to check the install and I told them to bring one.

3 hours ago, wolfcreek said:

Top loaders with agitators tend not to tie clothes in knots. But top loaders with agitators are very rare in Asia.

I"ve seen stuff get tied up.  I bought my Whirlpool with agitator here 10 years ago.

Edited by SkyMan
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