Battery hydrometer results meaning?

[RogerDat 3,478]

Greetings! I have a 200 AH golf cart battery that has been in service for about 6 months, and it has 1 cell that is a different reading from the other 5. I think it is overcharged.

The red line is the 1 cell, and the green line is the other 5.

Any input Mikala?

 

 

found this; If the gravity. of a battery on charge begins to rise long before the voltage rises, and if the gravity rises above 1.300, there is too great a proportion of acid in the electrolyte. The remedy is to dump out the electrolyte, refill with pure water and continue the charge at a lower rate than before, until the specific gravity stops rising. Then charge for ten hours longer, dump out the water (which has now become electrolyte by the acid formed by the charging current), refill with about 1.350 electrolyte and continue the charge, balancing the gravity if necessary at the end of the charge.

Edited February 8, 2017 by RogerDat

[RogerDat 3,478]

Well, just got back from a re plumbing of my left leg in Manila, and as i was checking my G.C. battery, noticed my volt meter reads 13.18 volts, and my hydrometer reads 1300+, so my interpretation is that the meter, and hydrometer are showing the same state of charge. Am I correct in this assumption? Thanks.

[Paul 55,114]

2 hours ago, RogerDat said:

Well, just got back from a re plumbing of my left leg in Manila, and as i was checking my G.C. battery, noticed my volt meter reads 13.18 volts, and my hydrometer reads 1300+, so my interpretation is that the meter, and hydrometer are showing the same state of charge. Am I correct in this assumption? Thanks.

Is your charger a 3-stage, or 4-stage charger?

[Mikala 14,383]

On 2/8/2017 at 4:20 PM, RogerDat said:

Greetings! I have a 200 AH golf cart battery that has been in service for about 6 months, and it has 1 cell that is a different reading from the other 5. I think it is overcharged.

The red line is the 1 cell, and the green line is the other 5.

Any input Mikala?

Can you provide me the manufacturer name and model of the battery Roger? It's best to speak specifics as there are so many differences in battery specifications.

On 2/8/2017 at 4:20 PM, RogerDat said:

found this; If the gravity. of a battery on charge begins to rise long before the voltage rises, and if the gravity rises above 1.300, there is too great a proportion of acid in the electrolyte. The remedy is to dump out the electrolyte, refill with pure water and continue the charge at a lower rate than before, until the specific gravity stops rising. Then charge for ten hours longer, dump out the water (which has now become electrolyte by the acid formed by the charging current), refill with about 1.350 electrolyte and continue the charge, balancing the gravity if necessary at the end of the charge.

That's just plain old misinformation. Whomever posted such information should be held accountable for potentially ruining countless batteries. Plus think about the environmental damage! Wow! Crazy!

Edited March 1, 2017 by Mikala

[RogerDat 3,478]

This is my charger " I’m using a Samlex SEC-1230A 12 Volt 30 Amp Automatic Battery Charger. I have the DIP switch settings set to “Battery with Load”.

Best i can do, your right, there is a lot of mis info /FAKE NEWS on the web now.

 

PS, today ALL cells read the same, about 26 degrees temp.

Edited March 1, 2017 by RogerDat
add info

[Paul 55,114]

56 minutes ago, RogerDat said:

I have the DIP switch settings set to “Battery with Load”.

Currently, switch S1 & switch S2 both are off, correct? This forces the charger to go from stage 1 (bulk), direct to stage 3 (float).

My suggestion is to switch S2 to the "on" position. (Leave switch S1 off.) This will enable stage 2 (absorb) to be added to the charging cycle.

Alternatively, you can contact Samlex regarding what settings may be most suitable for your application.

What made you choose that selection?

 

[RogerDat 3,478]

I have the DIP switch settings set to “Battery with Load”

 

I interpret the hydrometer and volt meter readings agreeing with each other as a verification of correct charge ( meter readings coincide with hydrometer readings.

[Paul 55,114]

11 minutes ago, RogerDat said:

I have the DIP switch settings set to “Battery with Load”

Yes, I understand that. But, in doing so, you are leaving out a pretty important part of the charge cycle, stage 2, absorption.

I still suggest that you should contact the manufacturer for more information on this. I may be wrong here. But, I believe they will agree with my observation. 

I'm under the impression that @Mikala does as well?

[RogerDat 3,478]

Manual:OPERATION

CHARGING STAGES

STAGE 1 - BULK CHARGE MODE

When the battery is low, it will attempt to draw a large charging current. The charger senses the current draw

and limits this to the maximum permissible value. (15A for SEC-1215A and SEC-2415A and 30A for SEC-1230A).

Bulk charging takes place at this constant current. The battery voltage determines the chargerís output voltage.

As the battery capacity is restored, its voltage rises and its current draw gradually reduces. When the current

drawn by the battery goes below the maximum permissible value, the charger will automatically make the

transition to STAGE 2.

STAGE 2 - OVER CHARGE or BOOST CHARGE MODE

Controlled over charge ( or boost charge ) follows bulk charging to restore full capacity in a minimum amount of

time. In this mode, the charger outputs a constant voltage of 14.3V (14.9 V by changing the setting inside the

charger )for 12V system or 28.6V (29.8V by changing the switch setting inside the charger )for 24 V system. As

the battery approaches full capacity, its current draw further reduces. When this current is between 1.5A and 3A,

the charger then automatically makes the transition to STAGE 3.

STAGE 3 - FLOAT or MAINTENANCE CHARGE MODE

The charger goes into this mode if it senses a current draw of less than 1.5A to 3A. This condition will result when

the battery is fully charged and needs very low current to compensate for self-discharge. The charger outputs a

constant voltage of 13.8V for 12 V system and 27.6 V for 24 V system. This helps in maintaining the capacity of the

battery against self-discharge.

CAUTION

These chargers have been pre-set to operate in 3 stage algorithm. Please ensure

that the battery is not supplying any external load when it is being charged. If the

external load draws more than 1.5 to 3A, the charger will not enter Stage 3 - float

or maintenance charge mode (Output 13.8V or 27.6V) and will remain in Stage 2 -

boost mode (Output 14.3V / 14.9V or 28.6V / 29.8V).

The situation will lead to overcharging of the battery and boiling.

I

in order to charge a battery as well as supply an external load, the charger has to

be internally adjusted to bypass Stage 2.

[Paul 55,114]

Can you please truncate all the text you do not need to make your reply? 

[Paul 55,114]

Now, I am not trying to be a smart ass here. But, I read the vast majority of both PDF files linked to your charger's information page. I focused heavily on the (PDF) pages concerning the DIP switches, charging stages and voltages. So, I am pretty well aware of what is contained in them. 

Either way, the final decision is up to you. You asked for advice. Mike (@Mikala) and I both, gave the best advice we could. 

On 2/8/2017 at 3:20 PM, RogerDat said:

Any input Mikala?

I stand corrected. You only asked Mike for advice - not me, or others. I will refrain from replying again. 

Edited March 2, 2017 by Paul

[RogerDat 3,478]

Paul, I ask for advice from THE FORUM, and that includes you! Ha Ha.

I will try to get in touch with the manufacturer tomorrow night. I tried to edit the long post, but no edit button there now!

[Mikala 14,383]

17 hours ago, Paul said:

Yes, I understand that. But, in doing so, you are leaving out a pretty important part of the charge cycle, stage 2, absorption.

I still suggest that you should contact the manufacturer for more information on this. I may be wrong here. But, I believe they will agree with my observation. 

I'm under the impression that @Mikala does as well?

I agree with you Paul. Perhaps Roger would need to remove the load during that part though, to ensure an even absorption charge. Depending on how often the batteries go thru intense discharge, I'd be trying to get them fully charged at least once a week, but even twice a month would be beneficial to the batteries.

[sugbu777 2,687]

Thanks for all the good info in this thread

[RogerDat 3,478]

Greetings! My original question was about the 13+ VDC reading with hydrometer and volt meter.

What I found was I was taking the readings too soon, 8 hours too soon after charging,

http://marine-electronics.net/techarticle/battery_faq/b_faq.htm#3

 so I was reading the “Surface charge,” an inflated charge level immediately after the battery has been charged. http://www.interstatedealers.com/pdf/200004.pdf

 

As for the charge sequence of “battery under load”, I found only the manufactures recommendation to set the dip switch to that setting. It has worked fine for past 6 months.

http://www.cleanenergybrands.com/shoppingcart/product_docs/Battery/Charger/SEC-1215A_SEC-1230A_SEC-2415A_Switch_Manual.pdf

I found it takes almost a year before a new battery achieves a full charge, so my slight low is normal. I stopped charge at 11 AM.

My readings at 11 am were 13.47VDC.

At 3PM 12.76.

After 5 minuet load of 4VDC reading was 12.63, so not fully charged which is normal.

If the term “charging a deep cycle battery under load “ returns no relevant factual post, but only good old boy info, what is a term that will get thru GOOGLE  fake post?

For me this satisfies my need, if anyone has more to add about charging under load, please do!